A writer who once declared that "the world would be a better place if we could all stop pretending that kale tastes good" has reversed course after an unforgettable kale salad at Barbuto last weekend. The meal was part of a Chef's Table dinner for the writer's husband's birthday on Saturday night.
At home, the writer set out to riff on the restaurant version. The salad calls for raw, finely slivered kale, dressed lightly rather than overwhelmed. Golden raisins are gently plumped with wine vinegar, walnuts are deeply toasted, and breadcrumbs are toasted in olive oil. An uncompromising volume of salty aged pecorino romano finishes it.
Why the kale skepticism faded
The writer explains the shift: the objection was less to kale itself than to the fervor around it, as if no other healthy vegetable had existed before. The kale chips of 2010 did not help. But raw, slivered kale prepared like a slaw — lightly dressed, with contrasting sweet, crunchy and salty elements — proved convincing.
Both at the restaurant and at home, the kale salad was finished first. Even the household's 3-year-old took a bite, though only the raisins earned approval. In that house, the writer notes, that counts as a home run.
Editorial Notes