For years, food writer Deb Perelman publicly dismissed kale, even joking in her book that the world would improve if people stopped pretending it tasted good. But a recent dinner at Barbuto in New York's West Village changed her mind. The restaurant's kale salad—served as part of a Chef's Table meal for her husband's birthday—was so memorable that she felt compelled to recreate it at home.
Perelman, who runs the popular cooking blog Smitten Kitchen, admits she was never a fan of kale's hype. She found the vegetable's popularity puzzling, especially after the kale chip craze of 2010. But this salad, she says, works because it treats kale like a slaw: raw, finely shredded, and lightly dressed.
The key components are simple: golden raisins plumped with wine vinegar, deeply toasted walnuts, crunchy breadcrumbs toasted in olive oil, and a generous amount of salty aged pecorino romano. The combination, Perelman notes, was a hit at both the restaurant and at home. Even her three-year-old, who typically rejects vegetables, was curious enough to try it—though she only ate the raisins.
Why This Salad Works
Perelman's conversion highlights a common culinary lesson: preparation matters. Raw kale, when sliced thinly and tossed with a light vinaigrette, loses its tough texture and bitter edge. The addition of toasted nuts and cheese adds richness, while the vinegar-soaked raisins provide a sweet contrast.
At Barbuto, the salad is a signature dish, and its popularity has inspired many home cooks to attempt their own versions. Perelman's recipe is one such adaptation, and she shares it with her readers, noting that she has no intention of keeping cooking secrets.
For those who have been skeptical of kale, this salad might be a good starting point. It's a far cry from the overly dressed, massaged kale salads that often dominate menus. Instead, it's a delicate balance of textures and flavors that even a self-proclaimed kale hater can appreciate.
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